Listed simply as Begendi Kebab, its original Ottoman name is Hünkâr Beğendi – a phrase that translates rather wonderfully as “The Sultan liked it.”
Like many dishes that have stood the test of time, exactly how it earned its name depends on who is telling the story.
One version takes us back to the 17th century, where legend has it that an Ottoman Sultan was served a new dish of tender lamb accompanied by a silky purée of smoked aubergine. So impressed was he that his verdict became its name.
Another origin story moves the story forward two centuries to 1869, when Empress Eugénie of France visited Istanbul. According to this telling, palace chefs created the dish in her honour before it eventually found its way into kitchens across Turkey and beyond.
So which story is true?
Perhaps that’s the wrong question.
The best food stories have a habit of evolving as they’re passed from one table to another. Details become blurred, new characters appear and every family seems to have their own version. The stories change, but the dishes remain.
What has endured is one of the great classics of Turkish cooking.
Tender lamb served over smoky aubergine purée is a combination that feels as comforting today as it must have done hundreds of years ago. Rich without being heavy, elegant without being complicated, it celebrates ingredients that have been at the heart of Turkish kitchens for generations.
Today, you’ll simply find it listed as Begendi Kebab on the HAZ menu – the spelling may be simpler, but the story remains every bit as rich.
Whether you believe the Sultan’s version, the Empress’s version, or find it more entertaining to add your own details (or simply enjoy the mystery), we’d encourage you to do what people have been doing for centuries:
Gather around the table, share good food and tell a few stories of your own.